Eater Vegas’s Editor dines out several times a week — if not per day, which means frequent encounters with standout dishes and sleeper hits from Las Vegas restaurant menus. Here’s the very best of everything Eater Vegas ate this month.

The Chicken Sandwich at Howlin’ Ray’s

My Southern California colleagues have long sung the praises of Los Angeles stalwart Howlin’ Ray’s. Years before the chicken wars made a fried chicken sandwich a must-have on any fast food menu, husband-and-wife duo Amanda Chapman and Johnny Ray Zone were fielding round-the-block lines with In-N-Out levels of cult fandom. Howlin’ started with Nashville-style fried chicken — battered and fried until golden brown and spiced with heat that ranges from mild to Howlin’ Plus. When the Via Via food hall opened at the Venetian Resort with other popular regional restaurants like Ivan Ramen and Turkey and the Wolf, my sights were set on the first Howlin’ Ray’s outside of California. I got the chicken sandwich at the medium spice level, and to the envy of Angelenos who regularly wait 45 minutes or more, I walked right in. It starts with a glossy bun slathered in French butter, an oil and vinegar-based slaw, cool pickles, creamy sauce, and a slab of chicken that is satisfyingly spicy, juicy, savory, and craggly with crunchy bits that jut beyond the bun, demanding to be bitten first. I chanced a nugget with hot-level heat and quickly found my ceiling, the fire mercifully soothed by a spoonful of banana pudding, sweet and thick with chunks of vanilla wafer. 3355 South Las Vegas Boulevard, Las Vegas, NV 89109. — Janna Karel, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest

Sushi at Doanburri Premium Sushi

It’s tricky to reconcile a craving for sushi and the total unwillingness to leave the house. Luckily, some sushi is not only well-suited to takeout, it’s designed for it. Doanburri operates as a takeout and delivery-only establishment, with chef Jae Doan drawing on over 20 years of experience and ingredients sourced directly from Japan to craft nigiri and sashimi boxes that border on artwork. I splurged on the Treasure Box, aptly presented like a jewelry case. A base of sushi rice is layered with tender cuts of bluefin toro, uni, and salmon, accented by translucent mini cucumber slices, vibrant pops of ikura and masago, edible flowers, and flakes of gold leaf. It’s a joy to look at, and an even better dinner: subtly sweet, gently briny, buttery, and balanced. 110 South Rainbow Boulevard Suite 108, Las Vegas, NV 89145. — Janna Karel, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest

Xiao Long Bao at Xiao Long Dumplings

After too many weeks without dumplings, I popped into Chinatown favorite Xiao Long Dumplings for a shared meal of beef-filled scallion pancakes, cucumber salad, spicy noodle soup, and the restaurant’s namesake dish. The xiao long bao emerge from a cloud of steam within a bamboo basket, seasoned pork and molten broth suspended within tender and elastic wrappers. I delight in the little ritual of it — dropping a dumpling onto my soup spoon, poking a hole to release steam, slurping any wayward broth, and depositing drops of black vinegar inside. Each delicate pouch bursts with flavor — warm, rich, and the definition of umami. 4275 Spring Mountain Road #D101, Las Vegas, NV 89102. — Janna Karel, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest

Root Beer Float at Bourbon Steak by Michael Mina

One of the newest additions to the Las Vegas steakhouse scene, Bourbon Steak at the Four Seasons takes its time with the main event — steaks like rib-eye and filet mignon are butter-poached low and slow before finishing on the grill, a process that takes around 40 minutes. In the meantime, there’s plenty to enjoy starters like a trio of duck fat fries that serve as a decadent stand-in for a bread basket. After a rib-eye with crab and white asparagus, I opted for a lighter dessert: a root beer float. A goblet arrives layered with sassafras ice cream cubes, fizzy root beer sorbet, jiggly squares of Champagne gelée, and crunchy pearls — all doused in root beer tableside. It’s whimsical, textural, and finished with two warm chocolate-walnut cookies to satisfy my lingering post-dinner chocolate cravings. 3960 South Las Vegas Blvd, Las Vegas, NV 89119. — Janna Karel, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest

Khao Soi at Lotus of Siam

Prior to my last visit to Lotus of Siam, it had been nearly a decade since I ate at the original location on Sahara Avenue. At the newer Flamingo spot, very clearly a Roy’s in its previous life, the over-the-top Thai dishes and the large party vibes remain. Expect to basically roll out of the place so full that you won’t need to eat for the rest of the day. The immense khao soi, perhaps the most expensive ($46) and decadent available in the U.S., comes with minced steak or deep-fried slices of juicy, tender duck breast. We chose the latter, meaty pieces of duck placed over a mound of wheat noodles, surrounded by a lake of curry-rich broth. Crunchy fried noodles are piled on top for extra texture, and the dish is finished with a sprinkle of fresh herbs. In retrospect, the kao soi is so tasty and intense that you don’t really need to order another entree, though one imagines a fresh salad of som tum (green papaya) might bring balance. 620 E. Flamingo Road, Las Vegas, NV, 89119. — Matthew Kang, lead editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest

Beijing Duck at Chyna Club

My server at Chyna Club claimed theirs was the best Beijing duck at the Fontainebleau. I’d argue it’s one of the best in the city. My first bite came in an appetizer—a cold salad with mixed greens, crispy wontons, toasted almonds, and savory duck dressed in a lick-the-plate-good peanut vinaigrette. Then came the main event: a glossy, amber-skinned duck wheeled tableside and carved with theatrical flair and a steady stream of puns. (“You’ll be waddling out of here.” “If this goes flying, don’t forget to duck.”) Plates layered with tender meat landed on the table along with supple crepe wrappings, cucumber and scallions, and rich hoisin sauce. The duck was rich and juicy, with a gentle smokiness and a touch of sweetness from the glaze, all beneath the crackling crunch of lacquered and fatty skin. Wrapped with all the trimmings, each bite was rich, balanced, and deeply satisfying. 2777 South Las Vegas Boulevard, Las Vegas, NV 89109 — Janna Karel, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest