I personally have experienced the professional success of providing rigorous, effective treatments for acne when I first was building my business.  I also have derived immense satisfaction from providing real results to my clients.  The emotional toll of this skin condition on the individual cannot be underestimated, and the psychological benefits of creating smooth, clear skin are priceless.

What has changed since I began my practice is a deeper understanding of the science that creates acne, including emotional factors such as stress, and the inextricable link between the gut and skin microbiome.  These were factors that I intuitively understood when I first practiced esthetics, always taking time to talk with my clients about their lifestyle, diet and stress.  You cannot fix the skin without addressing the individual holistically.

In this blog, you will see how stress, hormonal fluctuations and diet can affect skin, resulting in breakouts, learn how the newest research indicates the direct relationship between the gut biome and the skin’s biome and how the Repêchage Hydra Medic® Facial  with Desincrustation Mask for Oily, Problem Skin and the Hydra Medic® collection include important new ingredients for this skin type to help deliver results that truly impact the quality or your client’s skin and life.

Acne is the most common skin condition in the United States, affecting up to 50 million Americans annually.  Research estimates that approximately 85% of people between the ages of 12 and 24 experience at least minor acne. But it doesn’t stop in the teen years.  Up to 15% of post-menopausal women experience acne, and this number is growing.

Acne vulgaris is the most common form of acne, an inflammatory disorder of the pilosebaceous glands that presents as papules, pustules, or nodules primarily on the face, although it can also affect the upper arms, trunk, and back

The acne vulgaris market is expected to reach $10.4 billion in 2035, driven, according to research, “by the adoption of non-invasive  treatment options, which effectively manage acne while reducing scarring and downtime. These advanced techniques are particularly beneficial in targeting acne lesions, controlling inflammation, and reducing bacterial proliferation, offering improved cosmetic outcomes and enhanced patient satisfaction.”

Acne is a highly prevalent inflammatory skin condition that is caused by multiple factors, with many myths as to its origins in the skin throughout the years.  Today, it is increasingly believed that the interaction between skin microbes and an individual’s immunity play an important role in this disease.  This is because acne patients have presented a disrupted microbial display on their skin.  

Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes; formerly called Propionibacterium acnes) is commonly found in sebum-rich areas and its over-proliferation has long been thought to contribute to the disease. However, information provided by advanced metagenomic sequencing has indicated that the cutaneous microbiota in acne patients and acne-free individuals differ.

We now believe that acne formation is directly linked to irregularities in the gastrointestinal tract.  There is increasing research on the gut–brain–skin axis that connects gut microbes, oral probiotics, and diet.

For example, researchers have found that many new strains of Cutibacterium acnes are acquired during the early teenage years. But after that, the makeup of these populations becomes very stable, suggesting that this crucial, transitional teen year stage could be the best time for introducing probiotic strains of C. acnes.

We know that acne develops as a result of hypersensitivity of the sebaceous glands to normal levels of androgens. Androgens stimulate sebaceous glands’ growth and secretory function, leading to seborrhea and acne formation. This process is further exacerbated by the presence of C acne, which, in turn, results in skin inflammation.

C acnes is widely proliferant within the microbiome of the pilosebaceous follicles. The presence of C acnes can trigger immune responses, thereby contributing to the inflammatory responses observed in acne.

Contributory factors for acne include:

• Use of medications such as lithium, steroids, and anticonvulsants.
• Exposure to excess heat and sunlight.
• Use of occlusive clothing, such as shoulder pads, headbands, and backpacks.
• Disruptions in the endocrine system resulting in endocrine disorders, but also including pregnancy, pre-menstrual episodes, perimenopause and adolescence.
• Genetic factors which can significantly influence the proportion of fatty acids found in sebum.  This can contribute to acne as much as 50% to 90%.
• Repetitive mechanical trauma resulting from scrubbing affected skin with soaps and detergents.
• Several studies have indicated that increased milk consumption and high glycemic load diets are associated with acne in adolescence. However, there is no substantial evidence that chocolate exacerbates acne.
• Psychological stress is associated with increased acne severity, probably by stimulating stress hormones.

It is increasingly believed that the interaction between skin microbes and the individual’s immunity play an important role in acne formation.

There is increasing research on the gut–brain–skin axis that connects gut microbes, oral probiotics, and diet to acne severity. Emotional disorders such as stress, depression and anxiety are also hypothesized to alter the gut microbiome, increasing intestinal permeability and potentially increasing skin inflammation.

Acne occurs on the affected individuals’ face, neck, chest, upper back, and upper arm areas, where large, hormonally responsive sebaceous glands are abundant. Acne presents as a variety of lesions from grade 1 to grade 4, starting with comedones:

• Grade 1: Also known as “comedones,” and is categorized into two types, open and closed. Open comedones form when the pilosebaceous orifice becomes plugged with sebum and appears as papules with a central, dilated follicular orifice containing gray, brown, or black keratotic material. On the other hand, closed comedones form when keratin and sebum block the pilosebaceous orifice beneath the skin surface. They appear as dome-shaped, smooth papules that can be skin-colored, whitish, or grayish in appearance.
• Grade 2: Inflammatory lesions present as a small papule with erythema.
• Grade 3: Pustules.
• Grade 4: Many pustules coalesce to form nodules and cysts called nodulocystic acne.

There are additional types of acne, including:

• Acne excoriée:  A condition often seen in young women with mild acne, including comedones, that are obsessively picked and excoriated, leading to scarring.  These can become infected and leave post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
• Acne cosmetica: Comedogenic ingredients from makeup, hair products, sunscreens can combine with oil on the skin to contribute to acne.
• Cystic acne: A severe type of acne created when sebum with dead skin cells plug the hair follicles. Papules, nodules or cysts may develop.

The skin’s pH can contribute to bacterial growth. As skin pH rises, P. acnes and Staphylococcus aureus increases as the action of antimicrobial peptides decreases, leading to skin infection.  In addition, reduced fatty acid content in the acid mantle can disrupt the skin’s pH.

The Best Ingredients for Oily, Problem Skin

Seaweeds:

Besides being a rich source of vitamins, minerals, amino acids and phyto-hormones, the many different species available throughout the world are rich in unique bioactive compounds simply not bioavailable in plants grown on land. These include including different proteins (lectins, phycobiliproteins, and peptides), polyphenols, and polysaccharides.

Research has found that Seaweeds are one of the richest sources of natural antioxidants, containing phlorotannins, sulfated polysaccarides, fucosterol and fucoxanthins. Antioxidants are the most potent weapon available for fighting free radical damage, both internally and externally.

In skin care, specific seaweeds can be used to create a number of beneficial cosmetic effects including decreasing the appearance of oil, diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, exfoliating the skin for a more luminous looking complexion and moisturizing the skin to make it feel and look soft and smooth.

A few of the most beneficial seaweed species for skin care application include:

Laminaria digitata

A brown seaweed found in the very low intertidal and shallow subtidal marine environments in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. This seaweed is often called the horsetail kelp and is a natural source of 12 vitamins including B12, C, E, K and beta carotene, 18 amino acids, and as many as 42 trace elements.  Laminaria digitata is renowned for its ability to help moisturize the skin.

Laminaria Saccharina

This particular species of seaweed helps to soften skin while it helps remove oil and refine the appearance of the pores.

The Hydra Medic® Facial with Desincrustation Mask for Oily, Problem Skin is a deep cleansing and refining treatment that utilizes several seaweeds, including Laminaria Digitata and Laminaria Saccharina that both restore the skin with rich nutrients while helping reduce the appearance of oil, naturally.

AHA’s:

These are a group of hydroxy acids including glycolic, lactic, and citric acid. They work by thinning the stratum corneum, which helps remove surface layers of the skin.

The Repêchage Biolight® Luminex Mask is hybrid mask-peel, an entirely new concept in professional facial treatment, combining with Glycolic Acid (AHA), Fruit Acid, Laminaria Digitata seaweed and Kaolin clay to help exfoliate, deep cleanse and reduce surface oils.

Micro Silver:

Micro Silver has been proven to be anti-microbial, reducing the bacteria in which microbes thrive and therefore helping soothe inflamed and irritated skin.

BHA’s:

Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA), typically Salicylic acid is a very common ingredient used in the treatment of acne. One reason why it is particularly effective is because it is lipophilic, meaning it is oil-soluble, making it effective in everything from cleansers to astringents and targeted lotions and creams.

Hydra Medic® Beta Hydroxy Serum is a serum that uses both Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids to exfoliate to help reveal smoother, cleaner skin.

Zinc:

Zinc is an essential trace element used for decades for use in acne treatment to help reduce the appearance of oil on the skin surface.

Hydra Medic® Mattifying Moisturizer is a non-greasy formula with Seaweed and Zinc to help reduce the appearance of shine while leaving skin with a soft, velvety-matte finish.

Sulfur:

Sulfur is a nonmetallic natural element found abundantly in the earth’s crust. It has been used medicinally for hundreds of years, including the treatment of acne. The clinical effects of sulfur in the treatment of acne are believed to be due at least partially to its ability to soften and shed the outer layer of the skin. As a precaution, always advise clients that when using products containing sulfur, they must use sunscreen and that it is best to stay out of the sun.

Hydra Medic® Clear Complexion Drying Lotion utilizes Sulfur as well as Beta Hydroxy Acid and other botanical ingredients to combat shine and the appearance of breakouts overnight.

Willow Bark Extract:

Salicin, an extract from white willow bark, is the extract from which Salicylic Acid is derived.  Known as Salix Alba, it is known to help slough skin while reducing the appearance of irritation. Clinical studies have found that Salicin has the ability to reduce the visible signs of skin aging as well as the appearance of pore size when applied topically.

Dermatologist tested Hydra Medic® Face Wash is a deep cleansing formula with Willow Bark Extract to gently exfoliate excess oil buildup and Laminaria Digitata Seaweed extract.

Clays and Muds:

Kaolin clay is a silicate mineral fine powder considered the gentlest of clays, helping to gently absorb excess oils from the skin, and can be used by even the most sensitive skin types.  Ichthammol is a calming mineral derived from a mixture of theophen and free sulfur and is especially useful in masks.

Sea Mud Perfecting Mask is a professional treatment that utilizes three different clays to deep cleanse and absorb oils while Seaweed and Allantoin help to leave the skin feeling moisturized and refreshed.

For a full, step by step video on performing the Hydra Medic® Facial with Desincrustation Mask for Oily, Problem Skin,  go to Repêchage Education on LydiaSarfati.com, and join me on September 15, 2025 for my live VIRTUAL MASTER CLASS: Hydra Medic® Facial For Oily Problem Skin. Here, you will learn the latest research on holistically addressing acne, step by step instructions on proper extraction, deep pore cleansing and proper protocols, proper massage techniques and how to incorporate galvanic, supersonic and LED modalities for greater results.

See super savings on pro.repechage.com on the ground-breaking Hydra Medic® Facial with Desincrustation Mask for Oily, Problem Skin,  the Hydra Medic® Mattifying Moisturizer,  the Sea Mud Perfecting Mask, and the Hydra Medic® Starter Collection,  the perfect recommendation follow up for your facial treatment which includes five of the proven-effective Hydra Medic® at-home products.